Local spot: Riviera, Lowers
Boards: 5’11 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 Fever, 5’11 x 18 7/8 x 2 7/16 28.4L T-Low, 5’7 x 19 1/4 x 2 3/8 Rocket Wide
Sponsors: Vans, Channel Islands, Electric Visual, Jack’s, Hydro Flask
Height: 6 ft
@mike_andrews3 and I running down some smokin hot channels with an air planer. Didn’t see that one coming! ️@cisurfboards ️
Doors of perception ️
Very cool Sunday morning Leucadia farmers market surprise. Looks like some of the students at Paul ecke central school are doing a board drive to help support @urbansurf4kids . Honestly gave me the chicken skin because I randomly was walking by and read this and that’s how I learned. I’m gonna go donate one of my boards this week, and if you around the area too you should as well. If anyone knows the kids who are behind this amazing act of kindness can you tag them or their parents because I’d like to stoke them out with some goodies as well as give them a high five. ️ p.s the drawing and the poster absolutely RULE
A slideshow feature because I haven’t had the time to do one in far too long. So much has happened. I’ll send a postcard when I can. I’ll describe each now. Wow, James from jeopardy finally went down to Emma but I believe it was 33 straight days of being a king of random insanely hard information to know, big ups j bone. Then, a surprise board order from @cisurfboards a rocket wide with twin fins. Celebration spray, hope you enjoy. Next, better oblivion community center, I’m close to playing it too much because I love it so, shelbs always lets me know when I do that. Then Shelby and Our small bear in big bear. Ever camped and taken long bike rides? Wow. Next, a boogie board backpack....with a surfboard inside it?!?! Yes. Watch out lowers drop offs! Hiking one in has got a whole new meaning! Then a token surf photo. Grounds the reason for the slideshow season...this a bottom turn on a Tavarua wall of doom. I threw in the greatest hits photo of when Brice and I went horseback riding. Notice Brice’s hat, he always has a good hat. Then recently it was happy national #gettoknowyourskilsaw day, not sure if you celebrated too...didn’t see much on Instagram hope it was fun. And finally two texts sent between Shelby and I. One when I was showing her how hard I was working, the other when no words were needed. Hope you enjoyed, give a high five to a friend soon.
A clip on a board that I found in a jacks surfshop for sale. The board originally was shaped by @cbradleysurf for my brother @danedamus. Christian shaped some of the @cisurfboards in Europe back in the day and every year we’d get to order two or three. We called them the “frenchies” and use to absolutely love them. @patrickgud still has some in his rafters probably around 2006 I’m guessing was when we were getting those boards. Anywho I came across this board on consignment and wanted to breath some fresh life into it to see if it still had some magic. Packed it for a Fiji trip which was funny traveling with glass ons again. Board felt so different on the wave was really enjoyable. Surfed slower, which was great to have a low gear in such powerful waves. Some of the clips made it into a paradise project last year. Funny the lives of surfboards and some having many different lives. ️ @patstacyphoto / @jacobvanderwork
@positivevibewarriors grom of the week nomination from @austinware . Austin on a surf trip with @maisuma to the lovely destination of Maldives came across this legend. Ahmed anoof, the goofy footed hammer!!!! Austin came straight home and said Ahmed is leading the way for passing the stoke in the line ups on those perfect atoll passes. Big ups brother! @a_anoof hopefully I can make it back over for a surf trip soon. Miss the Maldives ️️️
You’ll find the most awesome stuff on a bike ride in o side. Major “free stuff” score. After market @cisurfboards flyer Mod boogie tail, og chop tail re glassed tribal single fin and potential thruster or wing fcs 2 plugs. Concave deck by design not age. Broken bicycle chain Al Merrick logo. Major stoke o Rama. If it fires you up, give someone around you a high five or go ride your bike, great for the legs and or getting new boards.
I heard they recently added more hops. ️ @alexkilauano / @r_ritchie if you’d like more link in bio.
Goodbye Waco- it’s live! A retrospective piece on the topic of wave pools in the west and cold beers in the heat. Link in bio @alexkilauano
@alexkilauano / @_taylorcurran
Pat and I getting to enjoy some tall boys at j bay! ️ @alexkilauano // @patrickgud