Local spot: Riviera, Lowers
Boards: 5’11 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 Fever, 5’11 x 18 7/8 x 2 7/16 28.4L T-Low, 5’7 x 19 1/4 x 2 3/8 Rocket Wide
Sponsors: Vans, Channel Islands, Electric Visual, Jack’s, Hydro Flask
Height: 6 ft
I asked @taylorsteele if he would be a legend and pick two vhs movies and talk the stories behind these films and he said yes. TOMORROW 12 pm pst. If you can guess which two you’re my hero, because it blew my mind. Also, a HUGE thank you to @damienhobgood for taking the time to share so much knowledge with us today on the outreach. I just uploaded the conversation to YouTube and it will be in the link in my bio. Both Damo and CJ have always been mentors and today was a great example of Damo being his pure, genuine, awesome self. Thanks dr Damo.
Today we get to talk with @damienhobgood about his work through the collection of incredible globe surf movies created by joe g. This one specifically is my favorite. The surfing, the music, the marketing of it. Everything was amazing. Can you guess what movie??? Tune in please. 12 pm pst. Link in bio
Today on the outreach was incredible. @shanedorian has always been a hero to me and today solidified it. So many rad moments and cool insights to things I thought I had memorized already. If you’re tuned in we’ve been learning a lot from the legends of the culture of surfing, if not try and tune in. Tomorrow we are catching up with @damienhobgood. That’s gonna be EPIC I am sure, both Damo @cjhobgood_ have been huge role models for pat, dane and I. 12 pm PST. Link in bio
12pm pst live with @shanedorian . Shane has always been one of our heroes growing up. 2-20 feet surf club. Originally I selfishly wanted to watch blueprint today as it is incredible. Shane has been in so many important films though today when we are live im going to ask him which he would prefer to watch. Definitely a hard choice! Tune in! Link in bio, or YouTube “the vibe up”
@nathanfletcher today on the outreach was incredible. Here is a short minute of a conversation about how sonny miller travelled with all of his gear. There was so many moments that were amazing, I hope you were able to tune in. If not I figured out how to save the conversation and I uploaded it to the YouTube or on the paradise awareness outreach as well. Thank you again Nate. I highly suggest listening to the outreach, we are learning a lot. Tomorrow at 12 pm pst will be @shanedorian talking billabongs deep vault of films with of course his profile film BLUE PRINT being played. Thanks again still can’t believe this is happening it’s a dream come true for me to talk to heroes about surfing.
Today, outreach # 6. @nathanfletcher talking about These Colors Taste Like Music. This was a limited release film that Nate and sonny miller put together that is drastically different from a lot of other movies. Nate is my favorite surfer and a rad human, today is going to be unreal. 12 pm pst starts the live stream. Tune in! Link in bio
Thank you to everyone who took the time to tune in. Today was a blowout of stoke. Major takeaways—- @mfanno is a hammer. Truest form of a legend. Been on dhd since he was 13. Wow. And if you ever get the chance to take a FaceTime from @cocom4debarrelkilla TAKE IT!!! It will be gold guaranteed. Thanks everyone. Stay core. Enjoy the weekend. Monday will be back live!
Today 3 PM PST. Live webcast stream thing with @mfanno. With MICK MOTHER FREAKING FANNING!!!!! Mick is going to pick 2 out of these 3 vhs to watch today. Please tune in. Link in bio. If you can text one friend who is a surf turkey and tell him today is gonna fire. Or tag somebody right here right now! 3 pm. Thank you @mr_mattmyers for helping to make the dream come true.
Today rocked. If you haven’t been able to tune into the • paradise • awareness• outreach yet I suggest you do. Started out streaming videos for my friends, now it’s getting RADICAL. Today @_timcurran broke us off on his profile film HERE and NOW with his boy @olicurran. Then @kalanirobb dropped knowledge on wearing comfortable clothes during quarantine, team purple Haze back door shootout and how to look younger as you grow older. Tomorrow is going to potentially blow your mind. It might potential also FAN your fire!!! Standing by! Tune in!
12 pm California time. @_timcurran and I are going to rip the top off these two classics. HERE and NOW was a game changer. WHAT NOW, WHAT NEXT also absolutely iconic. I caught up with Tim yesterday he was bbqing in the great outdoors and said he had plenty of stories to share. Hope you can tune in. @kalanirobb @rob_machado @kellyslater
Two highlights from today’s outreach discussing magnaplasm and 156 tricks. Major takeaways
1. Both @treckert and @ozzywrong are amazing humans.
2. FaceTiming friends to talk about surf movies is important and fun to do. 3. The @goonsofdoom_ started because of doped youth. 4. Iconic Bruce irons magnaplasm section was almost released and edited with Black Sabbath -symptom of the universe.
Coming at you live 1 pm start time. (Hopefully stream goes better at start than yesterday) @treckert is going to intro with me talking through the collection of films, first up will be 156 tricks, then calling @ozzywrong he said he would be up and sewing around 730 Byron bay time then magnaplasm then we will be all fired up for the rest of the day! Hope you can tune in link in bio.