hello h o m e love being surrounded by these views @healthade #followyourgut

back to this beautiful place today. Something about structure, consistency and regimen has been this deep desire in my life the past 6 months. Ive spent so much time away from home the past 10 years that im trying to learn to settle, prepare and plan. Ive always loved the spontaneity of my lifestyle and the constant challenge of adapting and moving with the flow of things but im admiring a more grounded feeling and trust me its a lot harder said than done. At least to get right with yourself. Funny thing is i always laughed a bit at yoga, but i realized its an awesome place to make yourself be with yourself. Cant hide from your emotions or reality when your sweating, struggling and having to work hard. The more i can be honest, the better i can act out towards healthier and better things. At least try. Im excited to adventure more, be uncomfortable and try as hard as i can in anything i do and that first starts with being honest. andddd long story short i want to feel small surrounded by nature and surf as many beautiful places as i can like this shot @williekessel took! 🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅

When the road starts to feel rocky... find your element

Two nights ago - few waves on the new @cisurfboards Mid then switched to my shorty. California really has been goldan lately and ive been finishing off the day with friends out in the water and loving ever minute of it. Its been magical. Video @kylemacvisuals

Mountains, valleys, and streams are what I grew up around and it will always feel like home @oakley

“There is no elevator to success. You have to take the stairs.” This made me laugh!! ! Thank you to everyone that supports and follows my journey here. There’s nothing that can replace a kind word or encouragement to others, so thank you for all of yours If you have a favorite quote for 2020, comment it below! ! @freestylewatches

Love making fun stuff and surfin’ | couple moments from this Winter at home in all sorts of conditions. @williekessel | @rvcasurf

The new @cisurfboards Fish Beard and Mid are dropping this Wednesday : cant say enough about these two new models. Changed my everyday surf stoke and search. I actually didnt get off them for two weeks straight haha. From Small point waves to big beach breaks i found so much room to play with my surfing and feel new things that traditionally being shortboard focused, i didnt know i could feel. Any who im super excited about this, from 6:30 pm @cisurfboards_sbstore #BrittMerrick and @devon_howard will be discussing design and performance! #cifishbeard #cimid photos : @kylemacvisuals

Love popping in for a workout with my @rvca fam 🧡 Always a good challenge when @brycekrause is in the house. pics @corina_rose

Everyday this winter nearly | 4.3 wetsuit and all @buellsurf pic @williekessel

Its interesting, often i dont post some of my most meaningful moments and i dont know why. For me 2019’s greatest victory came at the Us Open. If im being honest, before every heat i was in tears below the pier thinking of my grandmother i had just lost and i suffered from my first severe panic attack a few days prior. That kind of feeling where your out of your skin, heavy chested, tingly fingers and heart rate through the roof. I remember feeling this sense of sheer survival, a real rawness of life before getting in the water. All i could do to keep it together was declare lifes goodness amongst the chaos because i honeslty didnt know what else to do. I may have been panicking, but i was alive to panic. My breath was heavy but i had breath. My grandma may have been gone physically but she was now with me internally and forever. I was nervous but that was because it showed i cared. I had people surrounding my personal space, but they wanted to see me perform. I didnt think i could win, but i knew god gave me an ability to honor. With all this said, i cant emphasize the power or perspective and choice each and every day, down to even a moment. While my life felt rocked i still chose to move, to allow myself the space to grow and understand even the smallest victories in hard, hard places, which gave confidence and belief more than ever. These two photos were before the final.. the first, crying and finding my place, the second... putting a smile on, suiting up, showing up and getting the damn job done because i had no more room for feeling sorry for myself. I honored my grandma, my beautiful friends that helped me conquer the panic attack that week, the family that showed up to support me, my coach, the heavens and the goal to be back on tour. All in all last year was an emotional roller coaster, 2020 i see you and i got you and I’m excited about you! @jimmicane there for two of my most humbling and proud moments behind and in front of the lens!

Just a couple snippets from a session this past week. Feeling super committed, driven and fired up for this year. I feel a new kick in my heart and i love it. @williekessel | @rvcasurf