Local spot: Riviera, Lowers
Boards: 5’8 x 19 1/4 x 2 1/2 29.1L Rocket 9, 5’11 x 19 x 2 3/8 Fever, 5’8 x 19 1/4 x 2 1/2 Rocket Wide
Sponsors: Vans, Channel Islands, Jack’s
Wow, you mean this Saturday, the 8th annual @vanssurf #StokeOrama is finally on, at T Street beach here in San Clemente !?!? The support for this event over the years has been unreal. It truly is all about fun and coming together as a community and I’m so thankful for all the families, friends and kids that make it a day all about sharing the STOKE!!! Cause after all, that’s what it is all about right??? Another one of my favorite parts of these stoke o Rama events is that it allows our @positivevibewarriors Foundation to support a youth water safety program in the area of each event. As a family, my brothers and I have had the opportunity to experience the infinite freedom of creativity and happiness the ocean can provide, but also have learned that no matter the size or conditions, Mother Nature makes the rules and respecting the ocean through water safety allows the tools to thrive in our natural playground. Sharing those values with the next generation through the PVW Foundation has been a great pleasure for us. At the Huntington stoke o Rama we partnered with the @bencarlson_foundation , in New Jersey we worked with the @hcbplit , here in San Clemente we are supporting the @scljgfoundation and at our final event at Makaha during the end of October we will be supporting the @nakamakai ... If you live in these areas I would definitely encourage you to check out and support these awesome organizations teaching the invaluable tools of reading the ocean with the next generation!!! Looking forward to seeing everyone Saturday morning!!! Let’s ROCK this thing!!! P.S who is ready for the costume contest!?!? ️ #keepthevibealive #passthepositivity
Mid week meditations with Burning Spear!! 🧘️#keepthevibealive
Gotta love those weekend vibes!!! Thanks @hydroflask , the new mini tote bag cooler pack is absolute magic!!!! You know the feeling!!! #liverefreshed
Since it’s Friday, it’s always fun to take a little trip down memory lane! Found these epic snapshots from the lens of @frankiebdandrea during the collection phase of our @positivevibewarriors #SurfboardDrive for South Africa @wavesforchange @surfersnotstreetchildren . The top photo shows some of the over 800 collected boards being stored at our house during the month long collection process. Each day the stacks would grow and grow until literally one day they were past our windows and doors! Hahaha they consumed the entire house, yard, garage... everything before being organized, cleaned and packed into a big shopping container for their journey to Capetown. The below image is one of my favorite moments from that board drive. If you know us, then you know our love for Santa Cruz’s freestyle fun fanatic @shawnbarneybarronart is next level, especially @tannergud I think he still watches the Barney Documentary at least once a week. One day I got a text from @darrylfleavirostko after he had seen some of the posters for the board drive on social media , he said Africa was one of Barney’s favorite places ever and the people , animals and colors always filled up his imagination for the artwork he would create. Flea said he had some of Shawn’s old boards he felt would be an awesome addition to the drive for the kids of Africa and that Barney would have been fired up to see the boards go to fire up another kid’s world in the ocean. Going up to Santa Cruz that day and picking up those boards was one of the most special days of my life. The board drives rule, it’s so much more than just sharing a surfboard. It’s sharing someone’s story, passing forward stoke while also celebrating the community of being a surfer as a whole. I really appreciate these moments , and the people we have been able to connect with along the way!!! #passthepositivity #keepthevibealive ️
One wave at home, slidin’ along on a sweet little @cisurfboards #cifish // @seanlesh
Just a reminder to all San Clemente residents firing up for our 8th annual SC STOKE O RAMA EVENT... sign ups will be TOMORROW MORNING, Oct. 1 at 9 am ONLINE only. Visit @vanssurf via Instagram right at 9 o’clock am the link will appear in their stories feature and or bio for you to sign up. The event is free and limited on space. Due to that, it will be available to San Clemente residents only. It’s going to be a lot of fun featuring the events standard 12 and under, 10 and under and 8 and under division for boys and girls. And in the spirit of halloween you know a costume contest is going down too!!!! Game on for an awesome day, event will be held October 19 right at t-Street beach here in San Clemente! So make sure those alarms are set, the event fills up quick! Looking forward to seeing everyone for an awesome day when the event kicks off!!! Enjoy!!!
I’ve often felt as surfers we are inherently attracted to waves that seem to suit our natural rhythm or instincts. I guess surfing a wide variety of conditions and locations helps develop a well rounded understanding of wave knowledge, but there’s always that one location that draws you in deeper, sharing an equal part satisfaction and savage destruction. The kind that keeps you up at night, distracts from conversation, and keeps you in constant curiosity over fine tuning equipment. Maybe I just can’t seem to escape a deeper attraction to the razor thin line between the unparalleled rush of a mental ride or the absolute brutal beating of getting pounded along the reef in shallow water. I’m an absolute sucker for it. I first visited cloudbreak around 17, and have since made it a point to keep returning and learning this stretch of reef as much as possible since it has been opened to the public around 2010. There is an incredible community that surrounds the wave, from the crew on @tavaruaislandresort @jonroseman @kaeodechape @jarrodwhite9 , to @wolfofwailoaloa #Godfrey @chebula_ and most often times on pumping swells @kellyslater would be there at his second home stalking waves along the reef that most would never see. No matter the size, cloudbreak is truly all about wave selection. The odd ones, the rogue ones, the perfect ones. The ride seems to differ from first glance to the horizon. It’s a constant rubix cube. I remember a few swells in particular when I was trying to figure out why every wave I thought would be good turned either into a run away close out or a corner mush burger. Roseman was out and Slater. I took the entire day just to observe their eyes when a set would come. Where they looked, what that indicated, and how they reacted. It was higher education at its finest . Since those early days Cloudy has given me unreal freedom to explore finding lines on the wave face at high speeds, connecting turns and tubes yet mixed with torturing beat downs that challenge you to the limit psychology and physically. It’s a special place. Huge respect and thank you to all those who I have had the chance to share it with! Pure stoke! @toddglaser
It is incredible to be celebrating brands in the surf industry who have been around for 50 years now, and it’s awesome to see @cisurfboards reach that 50 year milestone this year. What started as just a passion of building boards, a $300 loan, and a dream to build boards that could inspire the likes of CI originals @shauntomson And Tom Curren, Al Merrick , his wife Terry and entire CI family have crafted equipment that has fueled surfing progression around the world for decades. I think my brothers and I were 14 when we rode our first Channel Islands board. At the time @kellyslater was on fire with Ci sleds underfoot , @rob_machado was knifing crazy turns on these narrow foiled out boards in his movie Drifting, and Bobby Martinez was a lightning in a bottle grommet goofy foot dominating the amateur scene on Channel Islands boards. But what really caught my attention was seeing an ad of the Malloy brothers for Channel Islands in the pages of a surf mag. At the time I couldn’t remember having seen a company promoting three brothers who all were pursuing their own creative, competitive and unique paths of wave riding. Seeing that ad inspired me that it was possible for the three of us to get behind each other and believe that there were companies out there that could support us as a trio while pursuing our own individual paths in surfing. It has been a huge honor to be apart of the @cisurfboards family for nearly 20 years now. Their entire staff from the ground up is as authentic and as fired up on surfing today as when they when they first launched. I tried to dig up a few CI ads from the past and it’s funny looking back at them, I think our first ad was in 2004. My brothers and I have had the chance to work on 4 pro models for @cisurfboards Over the years from @tannergud ‘s #ciTLow @patrickgud ‘s #ciFever and my #ciRocket9 and #cirocketwide designs! The support has been unreal!!! Thanks so much for the magic sleds, congrats on the 50 years and cheers to many many more on the road ahead!!!! Yewww!! @tsherms // @metykojimmy
Always a good day when you’re surrounded by this!
🤗 enjoy your Friday! #keepthevibealive
There is nothin’ like a wide open canvas ! ️ @vanssurf // @markomcinnis
Skatin’ around on a windy afternoon near home... ️️ riding a little 5’10” @cisurfboards #ciOGflyer love this time of year ! @alexkilauano
Travel teaches you a lot of things. It’s an opportunity to see how other people live, how they communicate with one another, different cultures’ customs and values and beliefs. You can even begin to feel what connects us as human beings regardless of many of the differences that would appear from first glance... In life, we never stop learning, and sometimes if your lucky, you can find a mentor who can inspire you to see the same world that we all live in, in a different light. I met @kepaacero almost over a decade ago while competing on the WQS. We had some epic battles, most memorable would be this heat at lacanau in France and we were both digging in deep on these right hand runners down the sandbar. even though we were competitors we established a strong friendship, connecting through a life on the road. After we both hung up the jersey and set our sights on waves in the farthest reaches of the world, I was lucky enough to be invited along to join kepa on a few trips into a few remote west African countries... it was a special trip as I began to understand a deeper side of my friend and his thirst to not only go completely solo and camp out looking for waves for months on end, but he genuinely wanted to connect with PEOPLE. It was amazing, there was truly no disconnect between him and any community or tribe we came across. He just has a pure heart in him and people could feel that. Maybe over a year ago he hit me up and mentioned that he had just visited a very remote area of Africa and that the waves were incredible there... there was no other surfers and the locals had a genuine excitement to ride some waves of their own after watching kepa surf. Inspired, he ended up going back home and doing a surfboard drive in his community bringing back boards for this budding surf culture. That is the magic of life isn’t it? I really believe that the ocean is one of those magic places that can allow people to come together, all while empowering people and creating an outlet for fun and self expression. I’m so excited to see the impact of these types of board drives for generations to come! Bravo @kepaacero !! Check out the film, it’s absolutely beautiful