Local spot: Rincon
Travel Spots: off da wall , and Teahupoo
Boards: 5’10″ x 18 1/2 x 2 5/16 Fever, 5’10” x 18 1/2 x 2 5/16 Fred Rubble, 5’6″ x 20 x 2 5/16 Fish
Traction: CONNER COFFIN FLAT PAD 3 PIECE
Food: Grandpa’s pasta
Restaurant : Tre Lune
Hates: blue bottle jelly fish
Loves : surfing , girls , family
Movie: caddy shack
Surfer not on tour: Dane Reynolds
Anyone ever seen a beet this big!? Pulled this a couple days ago thinking it was a few beets! I guess it shows all of the hard work we’ve put into our soil has paid off. I was worried it would taste a bit woody but I sliced it into small pieces and roasted it in the oven and it was amazing!!! #organic #garden #beet #cosmic #farmtotable #quarantine
Would love to here if you guys have any good podcasts, audiobooks, or tunes you’re digging on during quarantine?
I always enjoy @findingmastery podcast with @michaelgervais. Listened to a great @timferriss pod with @jack_kornfield that was really amazing the other day. Really looking to make the most@out of this down time and learn some new things ️
Another favorite moment from last year’s @wsl tour was this 9.2 from the France event... la gravier was super tricky this day and I had broken my board peddling out for my heat... then got my ass kicked the whole heat and was overheating in a full suit. I was so pumped when I found this wave and made it. After the heat I got diagnosed with a concussion from getting so rattled in the Shorebreak and felt like shit for two days. Luckily the event didn’t run for a few days and I was feeling better for round three... @smithoptics #pursueyourthrill
Some Quarantine Blues @monsterenergy fueled! Might turn into some shred metal soon playing guitar has been one of my favorite ways to #CrushQuarantine.
Super happy to donate my rincon classic prize money to @nokidhungry during these crazy times! Also, @leus towels is donating 20 percent of all sales online through the end of April to no kid hungry. Hope everyone is staying healthy and safe through these crazy times! ️
Another clip from the con from our latest edit! Link in the bio clip @ryanperry
@duanediego shouted out a SeeABassSendABass. Nice one from this summer. Throughout this whole self isolation and social distancing it has been really nice to have some local fish in the freezer as well as the garden to keep eating well. Diet plays a huge roll in immunity and good ingredients are number one!
NEW RINCON EDIT (link on profile)
@ryanperry has been digging into our footage stock pile to put together some edits during these down times. Hope you guys dig it! It was a slow winter for us around here but this was a super fun session at the con... ️
@joeturpel called out a cover challenge of Angels Wings by social d. They’ve always been one of my favorite bands. Excuse the slight pent up angst from being inside for two weeks. Felt good to get some out ️️
Headed down to lowers with the @ripcurl_usa crew before the lockdown for a fun session! It was cool to test out the new features on the #SearchGPS 2 watch where I could download my waves off of the @surfline cam—you can check the footage on the last slide and all the stats in my bio. Hopefully be back at it soon#surflinesessions pics: @mattheword
Since the @wsl tour is indefinitely on hold for 2020 (they’re also starting “the vault” digging into some of the classic and historical heats) I thought I’d take the time to share some rides and moments from the last four years on tour that stand out. I can’t believe I’ve already been on tour for four years and it’s nice to take this down time to pause and reflect on the journey. This was this time last year in the quarterfinals on the Gold Coast again @john_john_florence. This is a turn that I attempt a lot freesurfing so I was super happy to be able to pull this off in a heat.
Swipe right to check out some winter garden action and to not listen to me babble! I’ve always loved gardening... It’s therapeutic and also so rewarding to be able to harvest epic produce to incorporate into what I’m cooking. It’s been especially nice to have this throughout the quarantine. This down time is perfect to start a garden of your own!