Alex:

I have to be honest. I woke up and felt shitty on this morning of my brother’s death. All I could think about is how bad I wished he was here, and couldn’t acknowledge the thought of him not being so. Depressed and down, I rubbed the sleep out of my eyes and saw perfect 6 foot Off The Wall. People were getting blown out of barrels. I uncharacteristically had a funky cloud over my head and couldn’t stop thinking about my brother. I figured I had to at least surf once for him, so I grabbed my board and got out there. After an hour wait and nearly giving up on the session, a perfect set came right to me. The wave spit me out into the sand bar and instantly goose bumps flowed. “Hey Chris!” I said, and I felt my brother’s presence like none other. I don’t think I have ever been so happy to come out of a barrel. A smile then came over my face that never left all day. I was reminded how beautiful life can be, even on the darkest day. Thanks Chris